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I’m a long-time party bridge player (Chicago scoring), and I’m beginning to play duplicate, but I’m struggling. I know there are some differences in the two philosophies, for example, in sacrificing at duplicate. Can you recommend a book to help me to get into playing duplicate?
Heartless Hal, Dallas, Texas
I like “The Complete Book of Duplicate Bridge” by Kay, Silodor and Karpin, and “Duplicate Bridge: How to Play, How to Win” by Edgar Kaplan. Both books cover the basics well. Anything by Mike Lawrence or Reese, Kelsey and Kantar is worth reading. For modern bidding techniques, Larry Cohen has written a lot about the Law of Total Tricks.
If declarer has revoked in a doubled vulnerable contract and is set one trick, which becomes two after the penalty, how much will that cost him? Are both undertricks calculated based on the double? In addition, if the doubled contract had been made, how would the revoke trick penalty be handled?
Score Keeper, Walnut Creek, Calif.
Revokes are tricky things (generally a one-trick penalty, but occasionally two), but you did not ask me that question, so I won’t answer it! First of all, calculate the result of the contract in terms of making or going down, after the revoke penalty. Then look at the score. The answer here is down one, plus a revoke penalty to make it down two; that is 500, and the number goes above the line — hopefully on your side.
In a duplicate pairs event, as dealer I held ♠ A-J, ♥ K-9-8-6-2, ♦ A-Q-4-3, ♣ A-J and opened one heart. My LHO overcalled one spade, and my partner doubled. When I jumped to three diamonds, thinking it was forcing, we played there and missed a game. Should I have bid no-trump on the second round? Was my sequence invitational?
Missing Parson, Waterbury, Conn.
A jump in a new suit to three diamonds in a noncompetitive auction would clearly be natural and forcing. But once your partner suggests the minors, the jump is invitational (your actual hand if the spade ace were the two), since you are essentially raising him, not bidding a new suit. Cue-bid two spades, then bid three diamonds to set up the force. When you can get directly to a spot or go through a cue-bid, fourth suit or the new minor, the latter tends to be forcing, the former invitational.
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Holding ♠ J, ♥ Q-7-4-2, ♦ A-9-7-3-2, ♣ A-Q-4, I opened one diamond and rebid one no-trump, over my partner’s one-spade response. It seemed wrong to me to repeat my diamonds, but my partner said that a response of one no-trump guaranteed a balanced hand and denied a singleton spade. What are your views here?
One for the Road, Mason City, Iowa
Your choice was a practical one: Two hearts would be a reverse because it would force preference at the three-level and promise extras. Since repeating diamonds would overstate your suit, your only choice is to bid one no-trump unless you feel like fabricating a club suit. When strong, partner should have the New Minor Relay available to find out whether you like spades before committing the hand to play in that suit.
I recently opened one heart, and when my partner responded two clubs, I opted not to make a splinter-raise of my partner’s suit with a minimum hand and a singleton ace in a side-suit. As I understand it, one should not normally make such a call when the suit is a singleton top honor. Is that approach correct?
Leapy Lee, Portland, Maine
I’m not averse to splintering with such holdings, but only if the hand contains full value for my action. A simple rule is to down-value the hand by two points, and if the hand is still worth a splinter, make it. This applies especially in auctions that are not game-forcing, when responder has bid at the one-level.
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In today’s slam, if diamonds are 4-3, you can establish the suit and set up a discard. You win the diamond ace at trick one, draw trumps, cash the club ace and ruff a club. When you ruff a diamond to hand, East’s 10 warns you that perhaps the diamonds are not going to break. Indeed, when you cross to the heart eight and lead another diamond, East discards a club. How will you continue?
Since you can no longer establish a diamond winner, you must instead focus on a spade-diamond squeeze against West. One idea would be to reduce West to the doubleton spade king and a master diamond, and throw him in with a diamond. However, because South has the long trumps, there is no entry to dummy to achieve the throw-in. You must aim for a simple squeeze, and that requires you to duck a trick to tighten the screws on West.
If you think about it, you will realize that the only convenient moment to rectify the count is now! Discard a spade on the third round of diamonds, and West will win the trick. He can exit safely with a top diamond, which you ruff, but he will have no answer when you run the trumps.
His last three cards will be the spade K-J and the diamond jack sitting under dummy’s doubleton spade ace and diamond nine. He must discard the spade jack to ensure that dummy’s diamond isn’t high. You will then let go of the diamond nine from dummy and score the last two tricks with the spade ace and queen.